Balmoral Bakery’s 78-year-old owner wants to retire soon, but children not keen on taking over biz

Balmoral Bakery is no stranger to Singaporeans who grew up around Clementi, but few are aware that its head baker and second-generation owner, Mr Lim Ming Noong, was once an arts student. Founded in 1965 by Mr Lim’s father and uncles, Balmoral Bakery was originally a humble streetside stall in Chip Bee Gardens. To cater to British soldiers living in the neighbourhood, they sold traditional Eurasian puffs, pies, and tarts for no more than 35 cents a pop. It later relocated to Clementi.
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An assortment of puffs at Balmoral Bakery at Sunset Way in Clementi
“I graduated from Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts and planned to go into advertising after leaving school. But then my paternal uncle asked me to join the family business,” recounted the 78-year-old.
He spoke fondly about his artistic inclinations as he shared his “portfolio” with us – a collection of photographs showcasing the intricate birthday cakes he has created over the years.
Cake designs through the years at Balmoral Bakery in Clementi’s Sunset Way 
“We get requests to draw all sorts of cartoon characters. I’ve never seen some of them before, but as long as you have a reference, I can make it happen.”
When Mr Lim first stepped into the kitchen in his twenties, though, he knew nothing about baking. Nevertheless, he chose to work with his hands as he was discouraged by the few career prospects his education offered him at the time.
“This was my first job, and I’ve stuck it out all the way till this day. I’ve gotten so used to it that I’m like a machine now,” he joked.
Lim Ming Noong, the owner and head baker of Balmoral Bakery at Sunset Way in Clementi 
For over half a century, Mr. Lim’s day has begun at the crack of dawn. Rising at 4.30am, he starts preparations at 6.15am and opens the doors of Balmoral Bakery at 9am. The rest of the morning whizzes by as pastries fly off the shelves and Mr Lim and his crew replenish them.
Until recently, Mr Lim spends his afternoons hunched over a sponge cake with a piping bag, working intently on custom designs. These jobs, however, have become rarer in recent years, and it’s not due to a lack of demand.
“My hands are no longer as steady, so I seldom draw these days. I only do simple ones, only if customers request it.”
While Mr Lim takes immense pride in designing cakes, Balmoral Bakery’s true specialty lies in its traditional Eurasian pastries, a legacy that began at their original location in Holland Village where many Europeans lived. 
Balmoral Bakery first opened in 1965 in Chip Bee Gardens. In 1985, in line with Singapore’s clean-up of its streets, Balmoral Bakery relocated to Sunset Way in Clementi. Despite attracting more Chinese customers than Caucasian ones here, the menu stayed true to its roots. Samosas, pies, curry puffs, and custard puffs, which were bestsellers 60 years ago, continue to draw patrons from across the island today.
Much like its timeless recipes, the bakery’s physical appearance has been preserved with no renovations since the big move. During our visit, a former resident returning after 30 years was astonished to see the bakery looking “exactly as she had remembered” from 1985.
“Customers who couldn’t find us after we relocated have passed by and said, ‘Wow! So you’re here now!’ They were really happy and urged me not to retire, or they wouldn’t know where else to find these pastries.”
Beyond nostalgia and unique offerings, Mr Lim believes what truly sets Balmoral Bakery apart is their insistence on doing things “the traditional way.”
While some modern bakeries opt for premixes, Mr Lim makes his butter cakes from scratch. And unlike more popular fresh cream cakes these days, his cakes are frosted with old-school buttercream.
In spite of the painstaking efforts that go into each morsel, Balmoral Bakery has kept its prices affordable.
“A slice of cake costs $1.80. Where can you find a slice of cake for $1.80 today? Because our prices are very low, we don’t make a loss, but we don’t make much of a profit either, to be very honest.”
Staying true to traditional methods also meant that Mr Lim has had to turn away requests for “Instagram-worthy” cakes, typically featuring elaborate designs and layers of fondant icing.
“If they ask for a really tall cake, we cannot meet their expectations because we use sponge cakes, which are softer. The newer bakeries don’t, so they have no problem making cakes with several tiers. But we don’t make ‘funny funny’ things here,” he said.
By that, Mr Lim refers to the newfangled creations that modern bakeries flaunt for the social media generation, from elaborate birthday cakes to smashed croissants.
There’s a sense of pride in his voice as he notes a resurgence in the popularity of traditional bakes. In recent years, Balmoral Bakery has seen an increase in young patrons. Some come for the pastries; others for the bakery’s antiquated look, eager to experience the Singapore of yesteryears that their parents reminisce about. Either way, it’s a win for them.
“Maybe they’ve tired of the pastries out there which look good but don’t taste good,” he quipped.
Thanks to Mr Lim’s wilful adherence to tradition, Balmoral Bakery has no shortage of regulars who grew up with the brand and who have no qualms travelling across the island for a taste of the good old days.
“Some customers are even older than I am, and I’ve known them for decades. When they stop visiting all of a sudden, you more or less know what happened,” he said.
“But their children may come here and say, ‘My father used to bring me here when I was little, and now it’s my turn to bring my kids here.’”
From childhood treats to wedding cakes and goodies for newborns’ one-month celebrations, Balmoral Bakery has been part of its customers’ and their families’ milestones for generations. Unfortunately, this wouldn’t be the case for much longer. As Mr. Lim’s 80th birthday approaches, Balmoral Bakery’s days are numbered.
“Give it another year or so. We’re almost there. My health is deteriorating, and this job is physically demanding. I think when I retire, I would have to say bye-bye to the shop altogether,” he said.
Asked if he would feel reluctant to bid Balmoral Bakery farewell, Mr Lim shook his head.
“No lah. I’ve kept at it for so long. When I retire, there’s no stress and no burden. I can finally rest.”
For now, there are no successors on the horizon. Mr Lim’s children are white-collar professionals with no intention to take over, and while a potential buyer came knocking 10 years ago (Mr Lim wasn’t ready to let go of the business then), the last decade has flown by uneventfully.
Nevertheless, he holds on to a glimmer of hope that someone outside the Lim family can keep their heritage alive.
“If I put up an advertisement, I think there will be takers. It’s impossible to make a loss with our good name. We’ve been around for so long.”
Balmoral Bakery is at 105 Clementi St 12, S120105. Open Mon – Fri 9am to 8pm; Sat & Sun 8.30am – 8pm. Tel: 67792064.
The original version of this story first appeared in CNA.
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